The sprawling ruins at Conimbriga tell a vivid story. On the one hand, its domesticity is obvious, with elaborate mosaics and heated baths that bring to mind delightful, toga-clad dalliances. But smack through the middle of this tranquil scene runs a massive defensive wall, splitting and cannibalising nearby buildings in its hasty erection to fend off raids.
The Conimbriga site actually dates back to Celtic times but the Romans developed it into a major city. To get your head around Conimbriga’s history, begin at the small but well-organised and informative museum. Displays present every aspect of Roman life from mosaics to medallions. There’s a sunny cafe-restaurant at the back that was being remodelled at the time of writing.
